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Via Puntarena to Montezuma

Written by Nadine Zangerle on . Posted in Costa Rica


After an 11 hours trip, changing from bus to ferry to taxi back to bus, we finally reached Puntarena. Here we booked us in the closest and cheapest hotel just opposite of the bus stop. Our last meal had been breakfast so we were starving.

We knew it better but we wanted to give it another try with Chinese food in Central America. And it was bad. But when you are hungry you wolf down almost everything. Since we didn’t have a ceiling in our hotel room we could hear the neighbors watching TV the whole night. But we are experienced in traveling and well prepared - always keep your ear plugs close by.

The next morning we carried our heavy gear to the ferry – just a 35 minute quick walk – to get to Montezuma. It is supposed to be a quiet, little community with some beautiful beaches and a waterfall. Four hours later and here we are at the black-sand beach enjoying the sound of the ocean and watching the pelicans.

Since we were a bit exhausted from all the traveling, we decided to stay 4 nights instead of 2. I also caught a cold which showed very strange symptoms – sneezing and swollen eye, more like an allergy. Traveling every 2nd or 4th day gets very tiring and we had troubles sleeping lately. Let’s get some good rest at this nice, quiet place.

For sure we had to explore a bit so we visited the waterfalls. The cascades have three levels, the lower one is the highest with its 25 m and the second has a drop of 16 m. After we watched some locals jump off the waterfall we decided we will try the smaller one. The 25 m drop is way too dangerous.

Standing at the edge and looking down, your knees got mushy and your heart-beat goes up. It took a little while to convince ourselves to jump but we did it. And the second time was fairly easy – no soft knees and heart-drumming, just adrenalin. The impact was so immense that my breast muscles were so sore, it felt like 100 push-ups and in the evening it got even worse. But at least we had fun.

Today we will relax at one of the beaches and just listen to the songs of the ocean.  Well alright, we are not the beach type person so we got tumbled around in the waves and current. Felt a bit like in a washing machine. Not that I ever had been in one.

In the evening you can see fireflies, this is really cool. Most beaches here have been spared of development and if so only in a reasonable sense. You can see that Costa Rica focuses on eco-tourism which makes it also more expansive than its neighbor countries.

Tomorrow we have to continue in order to get to Brazil in time for the World Championship. Monteverde, the cloud forest, it is.

Accommodation: Hotel Sol y Arena, Puntarena
Price: US $ 20 per night, double room (own shower), shared bathroom, Wifi, TV
Comment: suits its purpose, just opposite of the bus stop, a bit noisy

Accommodation: Hotel Lucy, Montezuma
Price:  US $ 20 per night, double room, shared bathroom or own (same price), Wifi
Comment: situated at the beach, great spot, friendly stuff and kitchen to cook


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Ometepe - islands of volcanoes

Written by Nadine Zangerle on . Posted in Nicaragua

Looking for a taxi we carried our 25kg gear through the heat. How comes that you don’t find a taxi when you need one? Forget about the taxi, after 20 minutes and a few calories less we reached the harbor.

The Customer Service inspected all luggage for drugs since we are close to the Costa Rican boarder and this seems to be one of these areas. After a 4 hours ferry ride we arrived Altagracia with a spectacular view of the two volcanoes.

Since the harbor is 3 km out of the city we jumped in a minibus which brought us to the Hospedaje Ortiz. We were surely surprised when we received “muchas informaciones” what we can do on the island. Well organized I have to say. For the next day we booked us in for a volcano tour. Let’s try the smaller one with the lagoon, Madera.

The island Ometepe is situated in the biggest lake in Central America and was formed from two volcanoes. The Volcano Concepcion is 1610 m and still active. Last eruption was 1957. The Volcano Madera with its 1371 m has a small lagoon on top. The way up there is muddy and slippery.

At 4 o’clock (muy temprano) we got up to meet our guide and started with the autobus to the Finca Magdalena. Our group of 3 started with a quick ascend but Claudio (from Madrid) turned around after 1 hours. The way was tough and the humidity was insane.

After a 3 hours crazy ascend we finally arrived at the lagoon which was halfway covered in clouds. But from time to time the wind pushed them away and we glimpsed the whole crater lake. It seemed like paradise, this crater lake surrounded by lush jungle, only birds, frogs and monkeys up here. And us!

If you thought the descent would be easier the knees and muscles where telling you another story. The feet didn’t find a stable grip which made it so much harder to get down. The cries of the howler monkeys and parrots followed us down. Guess what, Spielberg used the cries of the howler monkeys for its dinosaurs in Jurassic Park.

Suddenly a family of Capuchin monkeys jumped above our heads. It was fun to watch them and they as well observed us curiously. After a total of 6 ½ hours mud fight and muscle punch we treated ourselves with an organic coffee and a coke.

The next day we rented bikes to explore a bit of the island. With sore muscles we drove to the mineral waters of Ojo de Agua und paddled in the healing, volcanic waters. Afterwards we wandered around the beautiful, black sandy beach of Santo Domingo.

Since we are stuck here on the 1st May we decided to keep up with our reports and pictures. Too bad we have no internet but the preparation is the hard work.

On the 2nd we started towards Costa Rica. Let’s see how far we get. We really liked the island of Ometepe, especially Altagracia. The people here are super friendly. It’s less touristy than Moyogalpa and it is fun to watch all the animals wondering around the street. Cows, pigs, ducks, chickens, dogs, this is live in its origin.

Accommodation: Hospedaje Ortiz, Isla de Ometepe

Price: NIO 400, private room, shared bathroom

Comment: family run, very friendly and helpful people, awesome information
                 about the island

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Granada - the Pearl of Nicaragua

Written by Nadine Zangerle on . Posted in Nicaragua

In the first night in Granada the ventilator died on us. I guess it ran hot so we backed in our room. The city seems to have problems with its electricity so when the electricity went off we felt like crossing a dessert. A cold shower became our best friend.

After the revolution in 1856 the city with its colonial houses and churches had been burned down from this crazy Walker, a revolutionist from Leon. After the restoration Granada has an old-new look and is the colonial pearl in Nicaragua.

We and our sun cream lotion where fighting to acclimatize. The cream is water-resistant but not sweat-resistant. I dubbed Michael “Rudolph, the red-nosed reindeer” already. Good to see that the locals also have some trouble with the heat.

Somehow we started our trips around town always at the peak time of the craziest temperature. From the clock tower of the church Merced we had a great view over the roof-tops from Granada and the beautiful Cathedral at Parque Central.

The horse-drawn carriages reminded us on Trinidad, Cuba and the people in town where super friendly. With all those bars and restaurants we had have some beer as well. The most expensive one we had in the bar Imagine with Nicaraguan live music singing Beatles songs. And those guys where really good. Just the next day we had to cure our hangover and lack of sleep.

Since the hostel had a shared kitchen we were happy to cook for a change. In Central America with Tortillas, rice and beans you don’t find a big variety. The internet was also a plus (only when we had electricity for sure) to update our website. 

On Monday we wanted to cross the big Lake Nicaragua since the ferry leaves to the Islas Ometepe only twice a week. On the four hours trip the tourists are only allowed to drive in business class, since the locals can’t afford the pricier tickets. Despite of the heat I wouldn’t like end up sitting in a fridge.

From baked to frozen, let’s see!

Accommodation: Hostel Hamaca, Granada 

Price: NIO 300, private room, shared bathroom, Wifi, kitchen use 

Comment: nicely arranged with hammocks and close to the Parque Central.